Archive for the ‘guitar amp’ Category
I just got a guitar and amp as an early Christmas gift. I have a Peavey amp, the settings are Amp, Effects, Pre Gain, Low, Mid, High, Post Gain, and Master Volume. I also have an Epiphone Wildkat if that makes any difference.
Well, it would help to know specifically which model Peavey you have. However, given basic control outline you’ve described, I would set the Amp model settings to one of the "clean" models, preferably a Vox or Fender Deluxe model if possible (not sure how they are labeled or described on your amp). Then set the pre-gain low, around 9 o’clock or lower– this most likely determined how much initial signal breakup you will have. Set the Low to 12 or 1 o’clock, mids to 11 o’clock, and high to 2 or 3 o’clock. Not sure what the effects pre-sets are, but you need a very quick slap-echo or delay effect, about 1.5-2.5 milliseconds, no more than 3 milliseconds tops. Now I’m not quite sure how the post gain figures in with the master volume on this amp, but you might try setting the post-gain to around 10 o’clock or less, depending on the amount of distortion it gives you. Then use the Master volume to control the overall level. You may have to set the post-gain slightly higher, it will require experimentation. Also, Since you are using an Epi Wildkat, be sure that your volume and tone controls are fully open (set on 10). The reason for this is that The Wildkat does not have a treble-bleed circuit on the master volume knob, and the stock Epi metal-covered P90’s are a little darker in tone compared to plastic-cover P90’s. Last, try using the middle switch position on the guitar (both pickups). It will give you some mellow bottom with a touch of sparkle from the bridge pickup.
Overall, your goal is a clean, bright sound but still with a good bit of bottom. Classic Rockabilly sound almost always involves a slap-echo or slight delay effect. It’s OK to have the clean sound just "on the verge" of break up, but you want to stay away from totally distorted sounds… unless you’re playing psychobilly instead of rockabilly.
SOUND SAMPLES @ 06:31
This video shows the Palmer DREI Triple Single Ended Amplifier explained by Markus Torvinen (Palmer Engineer) and Robin Henlich (Palmer production manager).
The Sound of the Amp was recorded trough a Palmer 4 x 12″ Cabinet with Celestion Vintage 30 Speakers and a Shure SM57 microphone.
The Palmer DREI design is more than just a visual extravaganza – it mirrors the concept and the circuitry. For the purest, most natural distortion only a single-ended design will do.
Single-ended tube circuits are straightforward and simple, providing the most organic, raw tube sounds possible. In contrast to the more powerful push-pull designs the output of single-ended circuits usually does not exceed 5 Watts. That is why single-ended circuits are mostly found in small practice amps preferred by many top-notch players for recording.
Dating back to the first days of vacuum tubes single-ended amplifiers are nothing new. However, the Palmer DREI incorporates THREE of these providing three times the output power of a standard single-ended design! Moreover, it accepts a variety of output tubes which all have their own unmistakable sound characteristics.
The EL84 is bright and “British” sounding with tons of distortion (think Vox amps), the 6V6 provides somewhat darker tones with a smoother “American” distortion flavor (think Fender), and while it is tight and bright at lower volumes the 6L6 becomes progressively darker when driven hard. With the Palmer DREI you can mix and match power tubes from three distinct amplifier tones and thus create your own voice.
Three different single-ended amps in a single unit – that’s the Palmer DREI formula!
Specifications
Tubes:
V1 – V3: ECC83 / 12AX7 Hand Selected Preamp Tubes
V4: EL 84 / 6BQ5 (Power Amp „Eins”), 5 Watt RMS ouput power
V5: 6V6S (Power Amp „Zwei”), 5 Watt RMS output power
V6: 6L6GC (Power Amp “Drei”), 8 Watt RMS output power
V7: GZ34 / 5AR4 (Rectifier)
Special design transformers, 200 mA full anode current choke
Regulated DC Preamp heating voltage
Only 5 passive parts on signal way, all tube design
Controls:
Vorstufe (Preamp controls): Normal Sättigung (LF, Muddy overdrive), Höhen Sättigung (HF, Tight overdrive), Klang (Tone control)
Endstufen (Power amplifiers): Eins (Volume control for EL 84-Single ended tube), Zwei (Volume control for 6V6S-Single ended tube), Drei (Volume control for 6L6GC tube)
Strom (Power on-switch), Bereit (Standby-switch)
Connections:
Eingang (Input): 6,3 mm Jack, 1M ohm, tuned for passive pickups
Lautsprecherausgänge (Loudspeaker outputs): 6,3 mm Jack, 4 ohm, 8 ohm, 16 ohm
Join us on Facebook:
http://www.facebook.com/palmergermany
Official Website:
http://www.palmer-germany.com
Official Worldwide Distributer:
http://www.adamhall.com/
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I am going to get a new guitar for christmas and i need a new amp. I need one to use in my room and to take back and forth to school every now and then. Which size is best 10w 15w 30w and so on. And it needs to be under $350 also. I would greatly appreciate it if you could post a link. Thanks.
How loud your amp will be is a combination of two factors; wattage and speaker size. The more watts, and the more surface area of the speakers, the louder you can go. If you’re going to be playing in a rock band with a drummer who likes to bang loud, you probably want at least 20 or 30 watts into 2×12 speakers or something like that. If this is just to practice on your own in your bedroom and for lessons with a teacher, you barely need anything – 10 watts into a single 8-inch speaker will suffice. Since you’re taking it back and forth to school, you presumably also want a fairly portable combo amp, not a big head-and-cab stack.
The other thing to consider is whether you want a modeling amp or not; modeling amps have features that produce effects like reverb, distortion, chorus, etc., and often that mimic the sound qualities of other famous amps. Some people like them, especially for learning at home and experimenting; others prefer a straight amp and build their own pedal board for effects.
Go to your local music store and try out different models. For a loud straight combo amp that will strip the paint from the walls, try something like the 100w Fender Frontman 212. For a less powerful modeling amp, try something like the Fender Mustang I. I don’t mean to be specifically endorsing Fender, those are just popular examples. Look around the Musician’s Friend website and you’ll see lots more.
http://www.musiciansfriend.com/solid-state-combo-guitar-amps
In this video, Chris Cannella from EVH gear, demos the new EVH 5150III 50 watt head and cabinet. For more information on EVH gear, check out http://www.evhgear.com/
For more gear reviews, check out http://www.guitarworld.com
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The amps and stompboxes in the new GarageBand let you change your sound as often as you like. And you can plug in a foot pedal like the Apogee GiO to control your entire rig.
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http://www.premierguitar.com PG’s Charles Saufley is On Location in Van Nuys, CA, for the 2011 LA Amp Show where he visits the Retro Channel room. In this segment, we get to see and hear demos of the RR1 Amplifier and the Fuzz and the Trouble Booster pedals.
For more LA Amp Show ‘11 videos or to watch more Premier Guitar’s 1400 other videos online, be sure to visit http://www.premierguitar.com
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SUBSCRIBE FOR MORE VIDEOS. Buy or download my CD “Tailgate Troubadour” at iTunes http://phobos.apple.com/WebObjects/MZStore.woa/wa/viewAlbum?playListId=39371267 or CdBaby http://www.cdbaby.com/cd/gregv or visit my website http://www.gregvmusic.com
Guitarist Greg V. http://www.gregvmusic.com playing a Tungsten Amp Crema Wheat 20 watt Tweed Deluxe with Fender Nocaster and Lava ELC cable. Please subscribe for more YouTube videos. The stock Fender Nocaster Tele is direct into the amp, no pedals were used. The voice mic picks up the ambient room sound and a small room reverb was added in post production to replicate a more accurate room sound since no one listens to a speaker 1 inch off the grill cloth which is where the mic is located.
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Guitar Legend Robin Trower talks about the gear he is using on his US tour 2009. Also mentions his new CD “What Lies Beneath”. Enjoy this video and many more at
http://www.harmony-central.com/theater/media_videos.html
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Learn more about the White Horse BP150 Bass guitar amplifier available exclusively from http://www.gear4music.com/Guitar-and-Bass/White-Horse-BP150-Bass-Guitar-Amplifier/8J5
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This fucking thing never buzzers that loud with the distortion pedal, and I don’t know if it’s my guitar, the pedal, the cables, or the amp. I took the pedal to my friend’s so he could try it with his guitar and amp with his own cables, and it didn’t buzz. Any ideas?
What kind of guitar do you have, and what kind does your friend have? If you have single coil pickups on your guitar, then they are going to pick up buzz around you.
If you’re buddy had a guitar with humbuckers, then they are much less prone to picking up buzz.
Since you’ve got a friend with a rig, you’re in a really good position to trouble shoot this problem.
Start with your setup, and then swap out one component at a time. Start by using his guitar, but your cables/pedal/amp. If that fixes it, you know it’s the guitar. If the buzz is still there, then swap out one cable at a time. You’ll find the problem this way.
Good luck.
Greetings from Austin, TX
Ken